Mayonnaise is an emulsion, in which oil is dispersed into eggs by vigorous stirring to produce a thick pale yellow cream; a few basic seasonings balance the flavors. Homemade mayo goes sour when you add the oil too quickly or (less often) you add too much oil. You might also make sure your eggs aren’t too cold and your oil is at room temperature because temperature fluctuations can cause some instability, though this is a really minor point.
If you’ve heard that the direction in which you whisk matters, forget it. To help you add the oil in a slow steady stream, you could put it in a squeeze bottle or a liquid measuring cup with a spout. Or use a teaspoon to start with a few drops at a time. If you’re using a food processor, note that many have a feed tube with a small hole in it, put there specifically for this purpose; you put the oil in the tube and it drips out.
For general purposes, grape-seed oil is best because of its neutral flavor, especially if you’re planning on adding ingredients. Corn oil delivers slightly more flavor and a golden color. Use olive oil if you want a particularly Mediterranean taste, which is often the case, especially with the Aïoli variation. Asian ingredients go better with a mayonnaise made from grape-seed, corn, or for a more pronounced flavor peanut oil. For vinegar, use sherry or white wine vinegar, but try lemon or even lime juice for a brighter flavor. All of these decisions should be based on how you plan to use the mayo.
Homemade Mayonnaise
Mayonnaise can be prepared in countless ways with a blender, food processor and whisk. Although the machines make things marginally easier, all techniques are foolproof if you follow the preceding suggestions along with this recipe. What will change is the texture of the mayonnaise when you make additions. By hand, there will always be bits and pieces of the stir-ins for a more rustic sauce. By machine, the mayonnaise will be smooth and evenly colored.
Ingredients:
- 2 egg yolks
- 3 teaspoons Dijon mustard
- 2 cups of neutral oil, like grape seed or corn, or extra
- Virgin olive oil
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons of sherry vinegar, white wine vinegar, or
- Freshly squeezed lemon juice
Method:
To cook by hand: Put the yolk and mustard in a medium bowl. Beat together with a wire whisk. Begin to add the oil in dribbles as you beat, adding more as each amount is incorporated. You’ll notice when a thick emulsion forms, then you can add the remaining oil a little faster. The beating process will take around 4 to 6 minutes depending on your beating speed.
To cook by machine:
- Put the yolk and mustard in a blender or food processor and turn the machine on. While it’s running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. When an emulsion forms, you can add it a little faster, until all the oil is incorporated.
- Add salt and pepper, and then stir in the vinegar. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Use immediately or refrigerate for about a week (less if using fresh herbs or aromatics).
- Garlic Mayonnaise (Aïoli). A Mediterranean classic, strong stuff but addictive. Peel 4 to 9 cloves of garlic (to taste). If mixing by hand, mince; if using a machine, roughly chop. Use at least half olive oil (you can go all the way if you like) and proceed with the recipe, adding the garlic in the recipe.
- Chile Mayonnaise. Use mild chilies, like ancho, or hot ones like Thai or dried chipotle. Soak one or two dried chilies in warm water until soft. Drain and pat dry. Or use 1 canned chipotle and a little of its adobo sauce. If mixing by hand, mince the chilies; if using a machine, roughly chop. Add the chilies to the recipe.
- Roasted Pepper Mayonnaise. Pretty and complex: Add 1 Roasted Red Pepper (page 330) or use yellow or orange. If mixing by hand, mince; if using a machine, roughly chop. Add the pepper to the recipe.
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