How to Do Things

In their raw state some vegetables, beets, carrots, artichokes, celery and celery, mushrooms, and others make fantastic salads. The flavors are sometimes subtle, sometimes stark; they can stand up to a range of bold dressings, which provide contrast and emphasis. So from beet salad with vinaigrette to new versions of coleslaw, from old favorites to newer creations, the recipes here are quick and interesting. Simple Radish or Jícama Salad

Radishes are usually eaten out of hand from a crudité or relish assortment and sometimes tossed into green salads. But they make a nifty crisp, pickle like salad on their own.

The combination of lime and lemon juice here mimics the juice of sour orange, which is often used in Mexico, but is tough to find in the United States.

Ingredients:

• About 16 radishes, sliced, 1 medium daikon, peeled and chopped
• 1 small to medium jícama, peeled and chopped
• 1 small white onion, chopped
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice, or to taste
• 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (optional)
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or cilantro leaves

Instructions:

• If you have time, toss the radishes or jícama and onion with the salt in a strainer and let them stay for 15 minutes; rinse and drain.

• Toss the radishes and onion with the salt, pepper, citrus juices, and parsley. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve immediately or refrigerate for an hour.

Radish-Celery-Mint Salad.

• Put 1/2 cup chopped celery for the onion, extra virgin olive oil for the lime juice, and orange juice for lemon juice.

• Toss the radishes with 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh mint leaves instead of the parsley and sprinkle with salt (if you haven’t already salted them) and pepper. Drizzle with the oil and orange juice, toss again, and serve.

Spicy No-Mayo Coleslaw

Things required:

• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, or to taste
• 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
• Red wine vinegar or lemon juice
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh chilies, like jalapeño, Thai, serrano, or habanero to taste (optional)
• 1/4 cup peanut oil or extra virgin olive oil
• 6 cups cored and ragged Napa
• 6 Savoy, green or red cabbage
• 1 large red or yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced or shredded
• 1/3 cup chopped scallion, more or less
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

Instructions:

• To make the dressing, whisk mustard and vinegar together in a small bowl, along with the garlic and chili. Add the oil little at a time, whisking all the while.

• Combine the cabbage, bell pepper, and scallion and toss with the dressing. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to serve. It’s best to let the slaw rest for an hour or so to allow the flavors to get smooth; the cabbage will also become tender a bit and exude some juice.

• You can let it sit longer, up to 24 hours, if you like. Drain the slaw before continuing. Just before serving, toss with the parsley.

Cabbage and Carrot Slaw, Mexican Style. Grate 2 medium carrots and use them instead of the bell pepper. Use freshly squeezed lime juice in place of the vinegar. If you like replace parsley with cilantro.

Apple Slaw. Use carrots in place of bell pepper, as in the previous variation. Use 1 medium onion, grated, in place of the scallion. Slice or grate 2 medium or 1 large Granny Smith apples (or use any tart, crisp, apple) and include them in the mix. Lemon juice or cider vinegar is the best choice of acid here.